Old vintages in Lucca: when to open them at dinner

An old vintage changes the table, without the need for grand speeches. That is where our experiences with old vintages begin: a bottle that has had time, opened to be drunk now. Not to make a show on a shelf. At Tomkat, at Via Calderia 12, just a few steps from Piazza San Michele, we like putting wines in the glass that many people would otherwise keep closed for years.

We are in the center of Lucca and open only in the evening, Monday to Saturday, from 6:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. People come who have one or two evenings in the city and are looking for a well-made Brunello, Bolgheri, or Tuscan Sangiovese. Locals from Lucca also come who want to drink something different from an unchanging list. And then there are those who see Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne and start asking very precise questions. That is fine by us.

Our cellar contains nearly 200 labels, mostly Italian and French. Tuscany comes first, because it is what our tables drink most and because we are here. France is the other language of the list: mainly Burgundy and Champagne, plus a small selection of Bordeaux starting from the 1980s. We choose the bottles one by one, and the list is updated often. The numbers are not there to impress. They are there to say that one visit is not enough to get through the list.

Old vintages: the point is not age

An old vintage is not automatically better. It may be more complex, more subtle, more ready to stand alongside a dish. Or it may simply tell the story of a different vintage from the one found everywhere. That is why we keep them on the list, by the bottle: to give you the chance to drink a wine with a few years behind it at the right moment.

We do not turn an old vintage into a rigid ritual, though. Availability depends on what we have in the cellar, what is open that evening, and how much a bottle truly deserves to be offered. We do not always promise the same wine, because that would be the quickest way to make a living wine list boring.

There are evenings when the right choice is a Brunello di Montalcino with time on its side. On others, a bottle of Barolo is better suited to the table. On others still, a bottle of mature Bordeaux gives the dinner meaning, especially if you want to leave Tuscany without leaving the logic of the cellar behind. Old vintages should not intimidate you. They should make you want a second glass.

Tuscany remains the first glass

Most of our guests come to Lucca to drink Tuscan wine. There is nothing to correct about that. Brunello di Montalcino, Bolgheri, Chianti Classico, Sangiovese, and Vermentino are the names that come up most often at the bar and tables. They are also wines that know how to accompany an evening without demanding constant attention.

A Sangiovese with a few years behind it can be a much more interesting choice than a bottle that has just come onto the market, but it depends on what you are looking for. Some people want the fruit and energy of a young vintage. Others prefer more developed, less obvious notes and a more relaxed structure. We do not give lectures. Tell us what you feel like drinking and what you have ordered to eat, and we will choose together.

With Lucca as our starting point, we also look for less predictable Tuscan wines. These are often the ones that make locals who think they already know everything stop and take notice. For an international visitor, they can instead be an opportunity to drink a Tuscan wine that they are unlikely to find on their next trip.

Wines by the glass, but not a fixed list

We often change our selection of wines by the glass. It is a small part of the list, but it is what lets you come back without repeating the same evening. In one edition of the list there may be more room for Tuscany, in another for France. A bottle may appear because it is the right time to open it, not because it has to remain on the list for an entire season.

For those in Lucca for just one evening, this is a practical solution: you can drink well without choosing a full bottle. For those coming from the Piana or Versilia on a weekday, it is a simple reason to return. A different glass, a few slices from the pantry, two people at the table, and no complicated plans.

Old vintages, on the other hand, are served by the bottle and opened when the moment is right. They are not a box to tick, nor a generic promise. If a bottle is showing well, we offer it. If it is not, it stays where it is. A good wine list must also know how to say no.

Bordeaux from the 1980s onward, when the evening calls for it

The Bordeaux Experience is a distinct part of our identity. We have châteaux from the 1980s onward, for those looking for a bottle with a long history and for those who want to engage with another idea of maturity. These are not wines to order out of habit. They may be perfect with a leisurely dinner, or too demanding for someone who simply wants a fresh, direct glass.

This is where it is worth talking to us. A mature-vintage Bordeaux does not have the same pace as a Bolgheri, and it should not. Burgundy brings another kind of precision. Champagne can begin the evening or accompany it all the way to the end. There is no fixed route, and you do not need to already know the answer.

Our wine list has also brought us recognition that we are pleased about, without changing the way we work: a Silver Star in the Best Newcomer List category at the Star Wine List of the Year International Open 2025, and another in the Best Medium-Sized List category in 2026. Wine Spectator recognized us with the Best of Award of Excellence in 2025 and 2026. But then the bottle still has to be opened, and the table has to be served well. The rest is just on paper.

What to have alongside your glass

The kitchen is intentionally small. We do not want to cover the wine with an endless menu. If the table wants to share, the toasted sourdough focaccia works well: focaccia, Cilento tomato, Tuscan olive oil, and Maldon salt. You eat it with your hands, and it requires no explanation.

For a red wine with more depth, there is the slow-cooked beef roast, served with chimichurri sauce and a tangy beef jus. It stands up to Brunello, Barolo, Bolgheri, and certain mature French bottles, but it does not oblige anyone to choose the most structured wine on the list. The pork spare ribs in sweet-and-sour sauce also have their place, especially when the table wants something more direct.

The pantry makes it possible to have dinner without having a full meal. Culatta di Parma, Jamón 100% Ibérico de Bellota, Italian and French cheeses from Tuscan pecorino to Jura Comté, Gillardeau oysters, and caviar. A selection like this leaves room for the wine. It is often the best choice when you arrive late, are hungry, but do not want to end up trapped in five courses.

One evening can be enough

If you want to understand a region, a vintage, or a part of our list better, we organize guided tastings bookable from 20 euros. They are not designed to fill out a technical sheet. They are a way to drink bottles chosen with a clear direction, seated at the table and with someone who knows the cellar.

For an ordinary evening, all you need to do is book a table and tell us what you are looking for. You can book through OpenTable or by calling +39 376 203 5395. If you are in the city for only a short time, mention it in the reservation: it helps us understand whether you want to start with Tuscany, look for an old vintage, or open a bottle that will make Lucca difficult to forget.

Come by whenever you feel like drinking a bottle at the right moment. We will take care of the rest.

Pier Giulio Bendinelli