Wine tourism in Lucca: an evening done right

Wine tourism in Lucca doesn't end when a church door closes or you come down from the walls. For many guests, it begins toward evening: they've walked all day, have one or two nights in the city, and want to drink a well-made Tuscan bottle with something to eat. Not a lesson. Not a performance. A table, a serious wine list, and time to choose.

We're at Via Calderia 12, a short walk from Piazza San Michele. We're open in the evening, Monday through Saturday, from 18:00 to 23:00. It's a useful address when the question is simple: where can you drink well in Lucca tonight?

Wine tourism in Lucca, but with a seat at the table

Tuscany is the main reason many people come in. Brunello di Montalcino, Bolgheri, Sangiovese, Vermentino. These are the names that reach the table most often, and there's nothing wrong with that. People coming from the United States, the United Kingdom, Germany, or the Netherlands aren't here to pretend they know everything. They're looking for a local wine that makes sense for that evening.

That's why the list starts with Tuscany and takes it seriously. There are the bottles people look for, but also less obvious vintages and local wines worth keeping an eye on. A Brunello may be the natural choice after a day among the streets of the city center. A Bolgheri can work if the table wants a more open, immediate red. Vermentino is a good answer when it's hot outside and dinner should remain light.

The difference isn't in the list of grape varieties. It's in the fact that we select every bottle one by one and update the cellar every week. Today we count almost 200 Italian and French labels. These numbers aren't meant to impress anyone. They're meant to ensure we never have to tell a guest that the only alternative to the wine they know is a random choice.

People staying in Lucca for just one night often book the same day. That's perfectly fine. You can come in for a glass and stay for dinner, or open a bottle and share a few dishes. The evening doesn't need a more complicated plan.

Tuscany first, then the France we like

Drinking Tuscan wine in Lucca is natural. But our identity as a wine bar also comes from France. Burgundy, Champagne, and Bordeaux aren't a decorative afterthought at the end of the list. They're bottles we wanted to place alongside Tuscany, because a wine list can have local roots without becoming provincial.

Burgundy ranges from important maisons to small producers. Champagne is represented by major names and vignerons. For those looking for Bordeaux, we've created a Bordeaux Experience with château from the 1980s onward. It's the part of the list for people who travel for a bottle too, for those who already know what they're looking for, or for anyone who wants to open something they don't often find by the glass in their own country.

This doesn't change the main point: if you're in Lucca for a few days and want to drink Tuscan wine, we start there. Barolo, Burgundy, or Bordeaux can wait, or they can’t. It depends on the table, the bottle you choose, and how long you want to stay. We don't treat wine like an exam to pass.

For those who live between Lucca, the Piana, and Versilia, the reason to return isn't just the bottle list. We often change the selection of wines by the glass. Sometimes an important bottle finds a place by the glass. Sometimes it's time to drink a Tuscan red more slowly, without committing to a full bottle. It's a list that moves, so a second visit isn't a repeat of the first.

A kitchen that doesn't demand too much attention

Wine comes first, but we won't leave you with a basket of bread and a speech about terroir. The menu is short. We like it that way. There are dishes that sit well alongside a bottle without turning dinner into a performance.

La Focaccia y Tomate comes with focaccia, Campanian tomatoes, Tuscan olive oil, and Maldon salt. You share it with your hands. It's simple, and that's enough. If you'd rather have something more substantial, the beef roast is slow-cooked and arrives with chimichurri and a tangy beef jus. It has depth, but doesn't demand a ritual. The sweet-and-sour Pork Ribs are another, more direct option.

Then there's the pantry. Culatta di Parma, Jamón 100% Ibérico de Bellota, Italian and French cheeses, from Tuscan pecorino to Jura Comté. There are also Gillardeau oysters and caviar. It's useful when you feel like drinking and eating well, but not ordering a long dinner. Two people can start with the focaccia, add cured meats and cheeses, choose a bottle of Sangiovese, and wrap things up with complete ease.

We don't create mandatory pairings. A beef roast may call for a red with presence. A pantry board can go in several directions. If you've chosen Brunello because you're in Tuscany, we won't tell you you're making a mistake. That would be a rather boring way to spend time at the bar.

A guided tasting, if you feel like staying awhile

For those who want to find their way around the list, we organize guided tastings by reservation from 20 euros. They're designed for people who are in town and want to devote some time to wine, without turning the evening into a class. We can start with Tuscany, compare different styles, or follow a French direction, depending on what's on the list and what you're looking for.

It's also a practical option for couples who don't want to choose just one bottle. You taste, talk, then decide whether to stick with a glass or order something to eat. For small groups and private occasions, we work by reservation.

Our list has received the Star Wine List Best Newcomer 2025 and Best Medium-Sized Wine List 2026 awards. Wine Spectator awarded us the Best of Award of Excellence in 2025 and 2026. These recognitions are welcome, of course. But the real test remains simpler: a bottle opened at the right moment, a table that is happy to linger, a guest who returns the next day for another glass.

The right evening doesn't require a complicated map

Lucca is a city to explore on foot, and the historic center has the advantage of leaving little room for excuses. If you've spent the day among walls, squares, and churches, Via Calderia 12 is close to Piazza San Michele. If you're local, it's an address for a weekday evening that doesn't need to become a formal occasion.

At Tomkat, you can book with OpenTable or call +39 376 203 5395. If you have a bottle or a style in mind, tell us. If you don't, even better: we'll start with Tuscany, see what's open, and find out where the evening leads.

In Lucca, wine doesn't have to be a memory to pack in your suitcase. It can be the best part of the evening, enjoyed here, with the glass in front of you and nothing else to prove.

Pier Giulio Bendinelli